This is a bit old, but in case someone is looking for an answer...
The back button shows up automatically, but the current view (not the one being pushed) needs to have a title. eg:
- (void)viewDidLoad
{
self.title = @"Home";
[super viewDidLoad];
}
Then, when you push a view onto the view stack with
[self.navigationController pushViewController:aViewController animated:YES];
the back button shows up. No need to mess with UINavigationItem or UINavigationBar. Use those to customize the navigation bar. Take a look at the example project called NavBar, part of xcode.