I can change a code cell to markdown by pressing Esc then m. But how do I change it back to a code cell using the keyboard?
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The shortcut you need is Esc and Y.
Use Esc and H to get a list of all shortcuts.

theblackips
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@EmmanuelGoldstein Press Ctrl+A to select all cells and then Esc and M to change them to markdown – theblackips Dec 12 '20 at 13:01