I can use !!
to filter by a user-given variable but not to modify that same variable. The following function throws an error when created, but it works just fine if I delete the mutate call.
avg_dims <- function(x, y) {
y <- enquo(y)
x %>%
filter(!!y != "TOTAL") %>%
mutate(!!y = "MEAN") %>%
group_by(var1, var2)
}