SPFX projects are written in JavaScript or TypeScript and they generate JavaScript client-side code. With that in mind and in terms of editor experience, VS Code has everything you need to develop great SPFX solutions - I wouldn't write it off on account of your positive experience with Visual Studio and the server-side C# solutions of the past. There are a lot of great tweaks you can make to your VS Code experience, from the theme to the bevvy of extensions that can enhance your experience depending on what it is you want to do. GitLens, Microsoft Teams Toolkit, etc. And more silly stuff like Power Mode
Speaking as someone who used to develop web parts and solutions in C#, there are things I miss being able to do - sure - when you have server-side control, you're basically operating in God-Mode -- BUT -- there are a tonne of benefits in the approach Microsoft has taken here. Node compile times are blazing fast compared to the build times of older C# solutions, they have improved their APIs massively over the years - meaning server-side interventions are not needed anywhere near as much. I haven't encountered any problem (yet) that I haven't been able to solve through the means on offer.
VS Code does have refactoring options - renaming a class, interface or variable is as simple as pressing F2 on your keyboard, and when you do so it renames all references in the open-workspace. You can then save all amended files using Ctrl+K S
or the File Menu. and there are commands like Ctrl+Shift+R for refactoring methods. I would strongly encourage you to approach VS Code with an open mind - what the development team aren't providing, the open source community often are. It's a great IDE.