After brief investigation I came up with a few conclusions. All observations are based on JBoss 7.1.1.Final with HornetQ Server 2.2.13.Final.
The non-durable queue is not a temporary queue. It exists until it's manually deleted.
All the messages submitted to non-durable queue vanish upon JMS provider restart/failure (delivery modes, i.e. PERSISTENT / NON_PERSISTENT of the submitted messages are ignored).
The value of JMSDeliveryMode header element of the messages is not modified. In particular, if the message was submitted with PERSISTENT delivery mode to a non-durable queue, the flag is set to PERSISTENT, even though the non-durable queue does not persist the message (it is lost in case of JMS provider restart/failure).
From the client side it seems to be a bit of a disturbing prospect, since the sender has potentially no way of knowing whether the declared delivery mode of the message will not be respected, due to the problematic meaning of 'non-durable' queue.
Furthermore, the term 'durable queue' in this context seems disjointed from the 'durable subscription', as it does not appear to affect delivery of messages to inactive consumers in any way.