I have a young Dwarf Meyer lemon tree that I intend to keep in a pot on my deck. Is it better to gradually increase the pot size to encourage a compact root ball or to plant straight into a large container that it will spend the rest of its life in?

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2Welcone Aaz! I see you've been around the network for a while but this is your first visit here, so thanks for coming!! How old is the tree now? Have you had it for a while, but haven't transplanted yet, or is it new? Could you post a couple of pictures of the plant in its existing pot? Also, if you already have some pots you're trying to choose from, a picture of those would be good too. As you probably know, editing as much information as you can think of would be great. Thanks! – Sue Saddest Farewell TGO GL Jun 11 '17 at 23:12
3 Answers
pots for clientsShoot, sorry JStorage, I'm going to give the opposite advice. It would be nice, however to see the size of the tree as it is now to be sure of the next pot size.
The whole deal about planting a too small plant in relation to a too large pot is this; not only does the pot and soil have to drain when watered there also needs to be a large enough root system to suck up the water or too much water will be allowed time to cause root rot and other maladies.
A plant that is in proportion to its pot will have a shorter period of new root growth before the top growth starts growing to accommodate those roots. Like a mini ecosystem...The top growth needs moisture from the roots, the healthy roots, as well as the chemicals absolutely necessary to do photosynthesis that provides the plant with usable energy that goes to the roots (for growth and storage), to the leaves for more photosynthesis to feed the plant and accommodate the new growth, the roots when they sense they are in equilibrium with the soil and water and air and chemicals/nutrients will send energy into the top growth to include flowers and fruit.
Putting a too small plant into a large amount of soil in a pot (this is vastly different than the large body of the garden out of doors) causes an imbalance. Mainly moisture which regulates the amount of air available in the soil. Just a little bit too wet and those baby roots are vulnerable to rot.
Not to mention that plant will be trying to fill that soil, bound by the pot with roots. First. There will be no top growth until that happens. That little plant has maybe a 50/50 chance to become healthy, miss out on root rot, during its stressed time where roots are trying to grow with little to no top growth that produces the energy/food necessary for larger roots and top growth...vulnerable to disease, insects big time.
Please send a picture of your lemon. Pop it out of the container it is in and take a picture of the root system. How long has it been in this container? What did the nursery say it had been fertilized with before you became its owner?
Plants can easily take transplanting. They are not that fragile, no way! When healthy they deal with transplanting very well. I always 'fruf' up the roots breaking a few before putting the plant in new soil. That encourages new roots (lots to do with new enzymes from breakage) and stops roots from encircling their own root system. Root bound means plants have been in a certain pot too long and the roots have followed the circular or square boundaries of their pot. Those roots will continue to grow in that direction and could possibly choke themselves off even if transplanted into the garden or a larger pot.
When we planted thousands of bucks worth of plants in a new landscape (thousands of times) heck couldn't do it all myself and had to teach my crews what to do. They were to use a knife to cut at least 3 or 4 vertical lines down that root ball. Sometimes they needed to use a shovel and punch through those roots to stop the circling because some plants were very root bound. Sometimes we had to 'butterfly' the root ball to fit the plant into a tight spot. Sometimes we had to amputate half the dang root ball. Not one single time that I remember did a plant die. Trust me, my crews were not caring humans with a soft touch. Shock never was a problem. Shock becomes a problem with change of environment (sun, shade, more wind), poor soil, poor drainage and temperature changes. Not with transplanting. Plants actually seem to enjoy transplanting...well some plants. Plants used to life in pots will thrive after transplanting into a pot 2 or 3 inches larger than what it was used to. Any more then too much soil versus roots will cause shock.
Planting flower pots and hanging baskets are a good example. One hanging 14" basket cost around $200. One big pot with a tree and perennials and annuals would go for $1000 and they'd hire me every year. And I used the clients own pots, not new ones. That was a larger bill. You wouldn't believe the number of plants that go into these pots. Chop chop, stuff stuff, cramming little plants together in LARGE pots but always with one or two or three larger, more mature, huge root systems planted in that large pot to get soil and water and drainage system going.
It is really a no no to plant a too small plant in a pot too large. Fresh potting soil. Make sure you use potting soil. Use Osmocote fertilizer you will need to only add once or twice per year. Absolutely no compost added, no sand, and no gravel below the soil and above the hole. Use pot feet or pieces of tile to get air under the pot, now that really improves drainage! And always leave a good inch or so between the top of the soil and the rim for proper watering. Let the potting soil dry out some before watering again. During the summer...depending on the pot size and the plant it might be every day. Otherwise, it will not should not be everyday. This is how you train the roots to grow to be able to get at moisture at the bottom half of the pot. All plants need this. Otherwise, saturated soil in the garden and especially pots will kill plants. Gravel beneath the soil causes a 'perched water table' actually ruining any drainage.
Please send a couple of pictures.

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2Hi stormy! I can't seem to get that picture link to work. I know how frustrating that is! Can you fix it? If you want to give me an idea of the search you used I might be able to do it for you! – Sue Saddest Farewell TGO GL Jun 11 '17 at 23:06
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I'll fix it...I tested it before I left awhile ago. It worked...then. I'll be back... – stormy Jun 12 '17 at 01:28
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It isn't that important but it works for me...don't know if I changed anything, try it when you get a chance. That would be a headache...if you can't pull it up but I could. Thanks Sue! – stormy Jun 12 '17 at 05:11
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Hi Stormy, thank you for such a detailed reply. Unfortunately I do not see an option for adding a photo to this post. The tree is about 60cm tall the moment, and the root ball is quite small - in fact a lot of soil fell off when I took the pot off - so it is not currently potbound. I have thought of initially planting the pot within a larger pot, or planting the pot in the ground as it is coming into winter here in NZ and I want to protect the root from the cold temperatures. – Aaz Jun 12 '17 at 05:13
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1This lemon tree is about 2 feet my brainwashed measuring sticks. I'd go with an 8" maybe 10" diameter pot. What was the original pot size? 6" or a gallon? Soil easily fell off small root ball? Go with an 8". Potting soil. Purchase a little packet of mycorrhizae. No fertilizer yet. Firm soil very well after placing that root ball in the pot after filling those roots, gently with a ball of soil stuffed in center or set on top of a ball of soil. Planting the entire pot in the ground is a great plan. Do not allow any mulch or soil up on the bark. Water well and leave it alone. – stormy Jun 12 '17 at 05:59
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What environment is this tree used to? Was it outside when you purchased this tree or was inside the nursery? How long has it been inside your home? Did you bring it home and place on your deck? The deck is death for plants in pots during winters. Cold will kill roots. Burying that little tree and pot is a good plan. But if this plant is not used to the out doors we need to talk about acclimatization. An indoor plant planted outside now before winter will most likely die. A picture, it really should be easy...our guides on this site will certainly help. More detailed information. – stormy Jun 12 '17 at 06:05
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Are you able to pull up the picture I sent? I've got other methods to protect plants out of doors in a zone borderline to the plant's hardiness. I am worried about a small rootball to a 2 foot lemon tree. There should have been enough fine healthy root fibers to hold the soil. Please send a picture, somehow? – stormy Jun 12 '17 at 06:09
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The current pot is 6". It was outside at the nursery where I bought it just a few days ago. I live in Auckland and our winters are not too harsh... kinda sub tropical so I think it will withstand winter in a pot once established... maybe not now as youngster. My potted palm trees are doing well on the deck. Sorry, but I still don't see any pics on either the app or online. I just added a photo on Instagram barneynzie if you can see it there? The root ball is very small and I suspect it was repotted very recently from a smaller pot. – Aaz Jun 12 '17 at 10:37
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Hi stormy. It looks like you haven't changed the picture link since you mentioned it in your earlier comment. I'm in a different time zone though, and easily confused, so maybe I missed something! When I click your link I get a Google page saying the link address wasn't found on the server. It looks like [this](https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMU2gUoUHb5TOYYj41Nr76FBs4k6XRt_UBSxxwp). I'll be in and out but will check back to see if you've changed it. Let me know if you need more help. If it's not that important to you, no need to worry about it! – Sue Saddest Farewell TGO GL Jun 12 '17 at 18:13
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Got a question for you if you don't mind, stormy. It's regarding transplanting plants from smaller pots to ones much larger. What kind of mechanism is it that a plant will always attempt to fill the pot with roots before it'll do much top growth? I know plants in the soil behave differently from those in pots but what makes it different than lots of soil around a plant in a pot compared to transplanting one into the ground *without* other plants around? That one can't possibly fill the space either but it grows just fine. Would love an explanation, please. Or should I ask as a new question? – Jude Jun 14 '17 at 06:48
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There are a few plants like yours that love to be root bound. This is not a normal thing. I think the dracaenas are another plant where it is important to transplant seldom and only into a just slightly larger pot. If you want to slow the growth you transplant...every 3rd year instead of every year. Most other plants can be transplanted before they get root bound in fact should be transplanted more, still in pots just a few inches larger each time. These plants in the garden still have vigorous root systems limited by moisture and other roots competing for the same space. – stormy Jun 14 '17 at 18:40
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Plants in pots is more artificial than plants in the garden. Their signals? tell them to (perhaps) claim all the soil they can while they are able before some other plant can begin hogging the soil that is quite limited. This is total speculation but it is as close an analogy I could think of. Much about this 'alien' life form we just do not know. Dangerous to anthropomorphize as plants are vastly different than animals and humans. I am totally humbled by plants. They do communicate in their own ways with each other and I think they try with us. In a strange room, my attention is always – stormy Jun 14 '17 at 18:47
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...pulled out of a conversation or a magazine to focus on a plant way across the room. I'll go check and sure enough that plant has a problem; lack of water, too much water, sitting in water, nutrient excess or deficiency symptoms on the leaves. Just plain unhapppy. Of course I go to the receptionist or whoever and let them know. If they allow me, I'll go water or write down a fertilizer formulation or get the pot out of those florist foils. I unstake trees in parking lots. More to plants than we are able to understand. In their world they are smarter than us humans in our world. – stormy Jun 14 '17 at 18:53
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@Sue I was able to pull up the link with your, 'It looks like THIS'...are you saying that you still are unable to see the link, you send me what you see or get I can see it (picture of pots, baskets I've done for clients)...and you are not able to see anything? This just gets weirder. I think it is because that picture is on my computer, not the internet, the codes can access from my computer but no one else is able to? I'll figure this out. Maybe go grab J.Musser?! – stormy Jun 14 '17 at 18:59
If the aim is to get the tree to a size where you are going to have more than a couple of lemons, you're going to need to repot it. The larger the final root mass is, the more leaves it can support and the leaves will then produce the sugars that will produce the fruit.
Now the normal advice is to pot up one size at a time, and the reason for this is mainly water. If you repot into a large final container, the root mass is going to be relatively small in relation to the amount of potting mix you use. So, this means that less water will be drawn off by roots, which means more stagnant water left in the mix which then leads to root rot.
But this scenario depends on a potting mix with water retentive properties. If there is no water retention of note eg. with a coarse mix as used for cacti, then it won't matter what size pot you use because the mix can't hold enough water to rot the roots. And citrus likes a freely draining soil.
So the answer depends on the mix you intend to use. Certainly, avoid any mixes with water gels that increase the water retentiveness.

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I would recommend going with the large container and not have to worry about repotting. I am always nervous about repotting because the plant does have to deal with the shock and you have to get it right so as not to damage it. Also you have to time it right so the roots are not constrained by the size of the plant.

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