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I am in zone 9b and have an apple tree (multi-varietal) that has been growing in all directions because of lack of proper pruning. I am interested in knowing when I can prune this tree in my zone and how best to prune it. As you see from the picture some of the unwanted stems are pretty thick and I want to know is cutting them off is a good idea in addition to where else I can prune to get the tree back in shape.

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JStorage
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    Are you trying to espalier the tree along the fence? – Graham Chiu Jan 20 '17 at 00:39
  • That is my best option I think since there is not much room between the apple tree and the fence. Not much experience doing it either, FYI – JStorage Jan 20 '17 at 01:54
  • Do you know which branches are which varieties? – Graham Chiu Jan 20 '17 at 05:29
  • @GrahamChiu yes I still have the labels I believe – JStorage Jan 20 '17 at 18:33
  • Then I guess which varieties you want will also determine how you prune – Graham Chiu Jan 20 '17 at 18:35
  • @GrahamChiu I have 6 varieties and want to keep all 6 – JStorage Jan 20 '17 at 18:36
  • Noooo. Doesn't matter the varieties. Just be prepared for the weight. The firmer you support plant material the more weak the growth. Those wires...thick, braided with eyelet screws will be enough. Get rid of those plastic wraps NOW on your tree. Prepare a grid of wires about a foot apart with which to train your branches to adhere. You can just support the branch on top of the wire. You can also attach at first the branch to the wire using floral tape or soft strips of cloth. That is all you should need to do. Again, check that the trunk is not covered with soil and is dry. – stormy Jan 22 '17 at 00:02
  • @JStorage The vertical shoots have to be pruned off but you need to leave 2 or 3 of them then cut them back to buds that are going the direction you need. Even using eyelet screws, get spacers so that that tree stays off the fence by at least 6" if not more. Looks like you have plenty of room. You won't have to worry about weight for awhile. Check out your pollinators this spring. If not enough of them get ready to use a paint brush. Get those plastic bands OFF of your tree like now. – stormy Jan 22 '17 at 00:12
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    @stormy need more explanation to your answers and picture will help. Why remove the plastic bands? Do you mean replace with wires? Can you send me a picture of those with the eyelet screws and where they grow? Where do the spacers grow and what do they do? – JStorage Jan 24 '17 at 01:55
  • Oh my, I should draw a picture. Those plastic ties collect moisture for one thing and moisture plus bark equals rot. They are totally unnecessary. The central ties be careful with as if they've been on your tree for long the weight of the branches alone will pull it apart. You can see the moisture beneath those plastic ties. The poles they are tied to need to be replaced with secured 1/8 inch braided wire, galvanized. You create a wire support. First blocks to get the tree away from the fence by at least 6", a foot would be best. Then you use eyelet screws (never use nails with wood... – stormy Jan 25 '17 at 00:06
  • ...the eyelet screws hold the wire that forms a 'tree', a vertical with horizontal wires at least 1 foot apart vertically, The wire is threaded through the eyelets. The branches are mainly supported from below by these wires and that is all they need even loaded with fruit. Sometimes the branch is flexible enough to wind around the wire LOOSELY. If laden with fruit one can use upright lumber to support from below the weight. Remove when fruit is harvested. Lighter the supports the thicker and stronger your branches. Shoot, I'll try getting you a diagram. – stormy Jan 25 '17 at 00:11
  • Try this site...hard to see the wires and eyelet screws. See the distance from the fence? That would be better but I wouldn't transplant, just use blocking to get the wire off your fence. Make sure you've not planted your tree too deep. That is a deal breaker. The top division I would tie very lightly with soft material. Allow the plant to shore its own branches up. Ties and supports always weaken a plant and yours is sort of used to all these ties. Needs to be weaned! The more a plant especially a woody perennial can MOVE the stronger the trunk and limbs. Horizontal connect is STRONG – stormy Jan 25 '17 at 00:19

2 Answers2

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First get rid of all those plastic 'ties'...now before the limbs have to have them for support. Cut all vertical shoots. All shoots that are not the direction you want with this espalier. It is OK for that amount of room. I'd get some horizontal wires, eyelet screws and something to keep 4 to 6 inches from your fence, permanently installed to train your limbs into the espalier. Nicely installed with correct hardware and a good thick wire. Those ties make for very weak branches and here we don't even have the weight of fruit.

Make sure you clean your pruners (bypass not anvil) with alcohol before touching your apple espalier.

That limb on our left in the picture needs to be pulled back, gently, consistently to get in line with the rest of the horizontals. Don't hurry or fret it is easy to train, just a bit of patience. All ties and all constricting wires need constant vigilance and commitment to short term and/or change.

Check that trunk where it meets the soil. Make dang sure NO trunk is buried otherwise you can kiss this wonderful apple espalier goodbye. Pull the soil way back...this next fall we should discuss how to raise this tree so that trunk is not buried or so low it is in danger of girdling rot.

stormy
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    This tree http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2437247/250-varieties-apple-tree--thanks-bit-hard-grafting-years.html with 250 varieties of apples needs wooden planks to support its branches! – Graham Chiu Jan 21 '17 at 21:22
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One thing to bear in mind with family trees is that the different varieties grafted on may grow with widely different growth habits. In the worst case, one vigorous variety may produce so much foliage causing shade and draw so much nutrient from the main trunk that other weaker shoots will diminish rapidly. Weight of fruit and branch volume may cause the tree to become lop-sided over time until the strong takes over completely.

Consider summer pruning the shoots and fruit thinning of the most vigorous varieties to allow light to penetrate to the weaker shoots and keep the tree balanced.

Colin Beckingham
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