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I want to kill the EAB in my wood before they get to my trees. And if they do get to my trees what is a safe effective way of killing them? I would use pesticides if I want to but I would prefer to do something more natural. Anything on how to take them out would be great. And if possible provide the name of the thing or how to make something. Thank you all! Edit: I did read the other question but really tells me nothing about how I could Kill them. It helped with the preventing part. If I needed to kill them, what would be the naturally way to go. A small addition to my question is what bugs attack and kill the EAB? Is it worth trying a insect that would kill them?

Ljk2000
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    Possible duplicate of [Could I have prevented an Emerald Ash Borer infestation?](http://gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/3950/could-i-have-prevented-an-emerald-ash-borer-infestation) – kevinskio Sep 09 '16 at 17:35
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    Never use pesticides to PREVENT infection. Your instinct is correct. There are many ways to prevent having to use any pesticides. Look up BT or Bacillus thuringiensis (3 different forms for 3 specific pests and uses). If one uses any pesticide it is a bandaid for something that could have been prevented (well almost). BT is a great pesticide that you MIGHT have to use. No using any chemicals until you see the pest, research the pest and talk with your closest Cooperative Extension Service. They know your area, your plants, the severity of the problem for your area, as well as the laws. – stormy Sep 09 '16 at 22:33
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    Have you checked the question kevinsky suggested as a possible duplicate? Do the answers there give you the help you need? – Sue Saddest Farewell TGO GL Sep 10 '16 at 00:18
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    @stormy most pesticides and BT will not work on Emerald Ash borer. The pests are inside the tree and only emerge as adults. Systemics do work but are costly and must be applied every year – kevinskio Sep 10 '16 at 01:34
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    Then killing the adults would be more important. Systemics kill everything classified animal (insects, microbes). Even more critical to talk with their Cooperative Extension Service for specific local problems. – stormy Sep 10 '16 at 21:03
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    Thanks for checking out that other question and for the edit. I'll vote to leave this open and hope you get some good answers! – Sue Saddest Farewell TGO GL Sep 11 '16 at 19:22
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    check this: http://www.emeraldashborer.info/documents/Multistate_EAB_Insecticide_Fact_Sheet.pdf – That Idiot Sep 12 '16 at 23:13
  • These are all good comments I am hearing I thank you all. I am going to set a bounty in hopes to pull as much information I can on this topic. – Ljk2000 Sep 14 '16 at 22:44
  • Could you explain why it isn't a duplicate of http://gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/3950/could-i-have-prevented-an-emerald-ash-borer-infestation ? – J. Chomel Sep 15 '16 at 06:30

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I found this document on the subject

http://www.emeraldashborer.info/documents/Multistate_EAB_Insecticide_Fact_Sheet.pdf

On the site

http://www.emeraldashborer.info/

It seems to be a treasure trove of information about this pest. One of the key points that I noted is that the adult EAB needs to feed on foliage before becoming reproductively mature.

It's an in-depth study on controlling these pests. I've posted the summary page here for reference, in case the document ceases to be available.

Key Points and Summary Recommendation

(from Herms, McCullough, Smitley, Sadof, Cranshaw)

  • Insecticides can effectively and consistently protect even very large ash trees from EAB, even under intense pest pressure.

  • Drought stress inhibits uptake and transport of systemic insecticides. Supplemental irrigation will be needed during dry periods.

  • Unnecessary insecticide applications waste money. However, EAB infestations are very difficult to detect when populations are low. Once EAB has been detected within 10-15 miles, your trees may be at risk. Be aware of the status of EAB in your location. Current maps of counties and states where EAB has been found are available at www.emeraldashborer. info. Remember, however, that once a county is quarantined, regulatory surveys end and maps for that county are no longer updated. In some areas, local information on EAB infestations may be available from city, county or state officials.

  • Trees exhibiting more than 50 percent canopy decline (thinning or dieback) are unlikely to recover even if treated with a highly effective systemic insecticide. Trees that are already infested and showing signs of canopy decline when treatments are initiated may continue to decline the first year after treatment, and then begin to improve the second year, as the trees recover. Effectiveness of products varies and depending on the product applied and the pest pressure, trees with lower levels of canopy decline may not recover despite treatment.

  • Emamectin benzoate consistently provides at least two years of EAB control with a single application, even in large and very large trees under intense pest pressure. It also provided a higher level of control than other products in side-by-side studies.

  • Trunk injections of azadirachtin affect EAB differently than other systemic insecticides. Results from a recent study indicate azadirachtin should provide effective protection for one to two years, depending on EAB pressure.

  • Basal trunk sprays with dinotefuran applied annually effectively protected ash trees up to 22 inches DBH in several studies. It is important to calibrate sprayers to ensure the proper rate of the formulated product is applied.

  • Imidacloprid and dinotefuran soil applications provided effective EAB control of trees up to 22 inches DBH (larger trees were not tested) when applied annually at the highest labeled rate, even under intense pest pressure. Soil drenches and injections are most effective when the product is applied at the base of the trunk. Generally, imidacloprid soil applications are more effective when applied in the spring than in the fall. Soil injections should be no more than 2-4 inches deep, to avoid placing the insecticide beneath feeder roots of the tree. To facilitate uptake, systemic trunk and soil insecticides should be applied when the soil is moist but not saturated or excessively dry.

  • When treating trees greater than 15 inches DBH with imidacloprid soil applications, select a product that allows a higher rate (2X rate) to be used. Not all imidacloprid products can be applied at that rate, so check the label carefully. Users must comply with all restrictions on the frequency of applications and the amount of insecticide that can be applied per acre in a given year.

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Richard C
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    So sad to see all those effort we now have to deploy to try to save trees! And we'll destroy other species while doing so, and go on creating other mass deaths. – J. Chomel Sep 15 '16 at 12:22