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I have an old John Deere 111, circa 1980, that seems to lose power when the blades are under an insignificant load. I'm not cutting very tall or abnormally heavy grass -- just your run of the mill yard here. The blades have been sharpened on a bench grinder and tested for balance. I've test the deck pulleys and they swing freely. Oil changed, cleaned the carb, and replaced the fuel filter.

When I engage the blades and without lowering the deck, they run at full power -- though it does leave an uneven, choppy cut on the grass. Now, when I lower the blades less than an inch, I can sense the blades not rotating at full power. The quality of the cut looks about like that of a mower being overloaded and choked out, but the engine runs fine the entire time. The quality improves when I reduce the speed to a snails crawl (2 of 5), but it is by no means perfect.

Does anyone have some advice on to why my mower is cutting poorly and also losing power when I lower the deck? I know this is a smaller JD, but this is ridiculous. Thanks for your help.

wellington
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  • We're not mechanics: http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/ – black thumb Aug 24 '16 at 00:18
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    @blackthumb Lawn mowers are on-topic here. – Niall C. Aug 24 '16 at 00:19
  • @NiallC. it's about mechanics, not lawn mowers. – black thumb Aug 24 '16 at 00:20
  • ....so where should I post my question? – wellington Aug 24 '16 at 00:22
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    @wellington it's fine here, but if you **want** it moved to [mechanics.se], I can do that (but because of the way migrations work, I have to close it here, then go back to the original on [diy.se] and migrate it from there. It can't be done by non-moderators). – Niall C. Aug 24 '16 at 00:24
  • Thanks Niall. I will leave it here for now and hope someone is able to help. Is it okay to create a new post on the other forum (Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair)? – wellington Aug 24 '16 at 00:27
  • I can move it over in a few days if you don't get an answer here. Cross-posting the same question is generally frowned on because it splits the information in the answers across two or more sites. – Niall C. Aug 24 '16 at 00:33
  • I thought that might be the case. Sounds good. Thanks Niall. – wellington Aug 24 '16 at 00:34
  • Have you checked the compression? That's a pretty old mower, if your rings are bad (or worse, bad piston or cylinder) your available power would be in the crapper. – Jimmy Fix-it Aug 24 '16 at 03:52
  • I just want to add that we have some users that are very active at Motor Vehicle Maintenance & Repair, and one or more of them may also contribute something helpful for you here. @Citizen, are you around??? – Sue Saddest Farewell TGO GL Aug 25 '16 at 00:34

1 Answers1

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The motor runs at full power is a good clue here. While I, too, would reach for the low compression as a first guess, that seems less likely if the motor is running fine (and also if it starts fine - my mower that needs a rebuild is an absolute bear to get started when cold.) If you happened to have, or to know someone who has a compression tester that will fit, that would not be a bad thing to check, but it seems less likely.

So, the rough cut and acting up when lowering blades points to a problem in power transmission - bad bearings, mis-adjusted belts, old/stiff belts, something like that. I don't know your particular model that well, but If the power put in by the engine is not reaching the blades reliably, that's the part of the system where the problem is - dive in and look/feel for bearings that are either not rotating well, or that have excessive play in directions other than the rotating one. Evidently whatever is wrong is exacerbated when the mechanism is lowered, so you may need to arrange to be able to investigate that.

Thinking further, the rough cut makes the bearings the blade pivots on seem most likely - and movement from those will degrade their belt contact, and thus power transmission. You say they pivot fine, but what I suspect is "slop" - movement in directions they should not be moving in. They are 36 years old unless you have already replaced them.

Remember to disconnect the spark plug wire (or take out the plug) when mucking about in the deck/transmission area. Finish with the same number of fingers you start with.

I don't know if mechanics would be particularly helpful - outside of the stack exchange structure there are several sites dedicated to old tractors, some including or even primarily lawn tractors, where you might find other people who have the same exact model and are familiar with common problems and symptoms for that exact model. I would suggest you look for those.

Ecnerwal
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  • Thank you for great advice! It actually appears the bracket on which the jacksheave pulley is mounted is locked up and not rotating freeing under the spring tension --- restricting the deck drive belt from tightening. Hopefully, I will only need to replace the belt or the spring tensioner. I will let you know if this was the culprit. Picked this mower up at an auction and its been a "learning experience" since I got it. I am quickly realizing why it was there. ;) – wellington Aug 24 '16 at 17:14