How can I fix my garden turf?

Question

When the wife and I bought our house a few years ago, the garden was an over grown mess. We hacked it down to make it presentable short term. When we came to sort it properly last autumn, budgets were tight and we probably didn't do what was best.

We had a handyman use a machine (a verticut?) to rip up the old turf (and seemingly about an inch of the topsoil) that was then skipped. They then went over the dirt with a rotavator to make the garden flatter.

We then had a friend come and sow grass seeds onto the soil. He raked the dirt and pulled up loads of little stones before sowing the seed and fertliser.

This has resulted in some beautiful grass, but I think because of the poor quality of the soil, the grass it pretty patchy and the soil is very hard and quite bumpy. Image]: ([![Garden You can see a bit of the patchiness here where it has just been cut. It is worse near the bottom of the garden. I have tried seeding the patches but the ground is so hard any little bit of water just pools and the seeds float off.

The grass is really high quality so i'd rather not dig it up and start again if possible.

My plan is to cut the grass a short as possible (2cm?) and then get some half decent topsoil and just rake it on top of the existing grass, gradually building up a decent layer of topsoil that will be easier to sow where its patchy, but also a little softer to be on.

I suppose my question is;

Is putting Topsoil on-top of existing grass a safe and effective way to to level the ground and help combat patchy grass?

Thanks

where are you in the world? Looks remarkably like the UK, is it? — Bamboo, Jun 23 '16 at 14:34
I ask because I'm trying to work out what type of grass you have - in the USA, there's a much wider range of grasses in use for lawns. — Bamboo, Jun 23 '16 at 14:57
What is sold as topsoil here in the US is often silt from lake or river bottom. Its properties are similar to what you describe. — Wayfaring Stranger, Jun 23 '16 at 22:20
@Bamboo - Good old North East England. the grass is a french 'breed' I believe. Its the same seed used at the local Premiership Football ground. — TheMagicPirate, Jun 24 '16 at 13:09
@Black Thumb - No pavement below, just a layer of clay I believe. — TheMagicPirate, Jun 24 '16 at 13:10
@user3400 use a rake to loosen up the grass that was "pancaked". — black thumb, Jun 24 '16 at 14:57

Ben Welborn · Accepted Answer · 2016-06-23T21:32:34.023

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I think that the problem is that you don't have a layer of thatch built up yet. Most lawns have too much thatch and they have to work on removing it. If you can just stay the course, I think that it will work out for you. Eventually you will have a thatch layer. Also, it would help to not bag your lawn clippings when you mow.

But to create thatch, I would just apply some straw. Also, for unknown reasons, I find square bale straw to be superior (for this purpose) to straw from round bales.

edited Jun 23 '16 at 21:32

answered Jun 23 '16 at 18:08

Ben Welborn

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This is exactly what has happened, the gardener has removed the Thatch layer. Just to clarify, when you suggest adding 'straw', you mean like the kind I might get from a farm in a big square bale? How long does that take to break down normally? – TheMagicPirate Jun 24 '16 at 13:07
@user3400 Decomposition is a funny thing, when do you call straw thatch? Maybe after a year... but hopefully you notice an improvement after just few months. Rain/moisture is a factor in decompositon. Also, stormys advice to water, fertilize, aerate, and to not mow under 3" is all true (generally good lawn care practice). Use straw in addition to good lawn care practices. In a couple weeks the straw should be settled in so that you can mow over it. But if you do chop it up, it's okay- you just want to kick any clipping piles around instead of leaving clumps. – Ben Welborn Jun 24 '16 at 13:48
I've never used straw for a newly seeded lawn bed. Straw takes forever to decompose, well not forever but it would have to be applied 'just so' it doesn't block water or light. Decomposition happens the minute something dies and all the little decomposers need lots of nitrogen for energy. I am very careful with fertilizer and newbie plants...and this would make me think too hard, grinning widely. Using sod would just make the little extra cost worth every penny. Straw is not thatch, thatch is non decomposed grass clippings and roots. – stormy Jun 25 '16 at 19:32
And after rereading your comment you are actually recommending thatch? Thatch shouldn't even have a chance to build up. If that thatch layer is an INCH, then one has to go rip up the lawn to get rid of it. Thatch is a layer that inhibits proper and deep watering, definitely inhibits any addition of fertilizer...THATCH IS NOT GOOD. Once per year aerating and using a fertilizer such as (sorry eschernal, grins), Dr. Earth's Lawn Fertilizer that comes with bacteria that love to decompose thatch. THATCH IS NOT GOOD. Bagging clippings also helps...proper maintenance is critical. – stormy Jun 25 '16 at 19:39
@stormy Like everything, moderation... too much water, and people drown, but we definitely need some. Half of an inch of thatch is healthy, more than an inch is unhealthy. No thatch answers the question as to why his ground is hard and his grass is patchy. Straw is basically grass (usually wheat, but could be rye, barley, or even rice... technically, all grasses). Straw is very often used when seeding... and it ends up becomming thatch. Maintaining the thatch layer is important. Removing it altogether is not healthy. – Ben Welborn Jun 27 '16 at 13:04
WHERE the heck are you getting this information? Not once in all my decades of experience and I mean hands on have I ever heard thatch is a good thing. We are talking about plants and not humans or animals. Do you know how to make soil better without mixing abnormal stuff into it? Please tell me why thatch, even less than an inch is healthy? Please. This goes against everything I know and heck that is an awful lot. You say this with such conviction... – stormy Jun 27 '16 at 21:45
@stormy shortly as possible then: Healthy lawns have lots of bacterial diversity. Thatch breaks down into organic matter. Loam is 1/3 organic matter, and it is continually being lost in healthy lawns. Thatch provides a cushioning zone (physical, chemical, as a little reservoir for nutrients). Thatch should be rich with lots of different bacteria and fungi. A healthy layer of thatch is typically about half an inch thick. When all is well, thatch is perpetually breaking down. The problem for various reasons is the lack of (esp. lignin eating) microorganisms which can cause thatch to accumulate. – Ben Welborn Jun 28 '16 at 01:42
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@stormy I speak with conviction because I have studied chemistry, biology, biochemistry, botany, plant physiology, ecology, genetics, metagenomics, molecular ecology, and so much more than I care to divulge, and I have made a career of dirt. – Ben Welborn Jun 28 '16 at 01:47
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@stormy You know, the war on thatch is pretty crazy right now; lot's of money talking. It used to be a war on weeds. But please know that the internet is powered by advertisements. The real truth isn't worth much and unless most people hear it a few times, they have trouble accepting it. The truth is, it's complicated and poorly understood, and his lawn will probably work itself out with regular maintenance. And straw helps struggling new lawns. – Ben Welborn Jun 28 '16 at 01:47
I don't need the internet...the internet needs me...especially where lawns are concerned. I do have the credentials and decades of experience. Thatch IS NOT HEALTHY!!! Not sure if I am missing something here but this is a first...ok...HOW the heck is thatch healthy, even being less than an inch? Explain in simple terms how it would help a lawn or any crop. You gotta be able to do that you know. I'm open...for new IDEAS even if they don't make sense. Help this make sense to me! – stormy Jun 28 '16 at 06:23
@stormy Look at is for what it is. Thatch is the transition/buffer zone (if you will) from dead material to organic stuff, like humic acid. Carbon is not a nutrient, yet you must know how important it is. Thatch is rife with microbial diversity, producing all kinds of molecules (mostly unknown and undescribed I'm afraid) that help (lets say protect) plants. Thatch provides microbial diversity, carbon production, toxin absorbing/filtering/processing and disease protection. – Ben Welborn Jun 28 '16 at 12:18
@stormy a good analagy is the gut. People and animals technically don't need bacteria in their guts (you can live without it), but it's healthier and easier to maintain a good population than fight to eradicate your gut flora. Bacteria help protect you and the lawn from diseases by producing organic molecules (like organic acids) and they act as place holders... literally filling the open parking spaces that could be occupied by disease causing microorganisms. *Please note that I am describing these things in an overly simplistic way. – Ben Welborn Jun 28 '16 at 12:21
Ben, I do NOT need simplistic explanations. To ever compare biology to botany is wrong. No comparison. We animals nor plants would last long without bacteria. Plants have to have it when grown in soil. Period. Micro and macro organisms to include bacteria need to be fed so they can assist plants with uptake of necessary chemicals along with water, keep the soil aerated and worth living in...if I WAS A PLANT. Sigh. 'Parking spaces to keep occupied to keep out pathogens'...my goodness. If I know plants I know human bodies even better. Please be careful with this kind of thinking... – stormy Jun 28 '16 at 23:00

score 3 · Answer 2 · answered Jun 23 '16 at 21:26

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I would try putting some fertilizer on that part of the lawn and providing enough water to see if that helps. That should help with the overall health of the lawn and getting it to look like the right side (I am assuming they are the same type of grass). For the patchiness, I would first loosen the soil (you mentioned it is hard) and then add some fertilizer/soil/sandmix with the right type of seeds in the bare area so that you get new growth there. Keep that area well watered for a few weeks till the seeds germinate

answered Jun 23 '16 at 21:26

JStorage

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How does one 'loosen' the soil in a lawn bed? No soil can be improved by adding sand, gravel, gypsum, fertilizer(!)...the only frickin' way any soil can be improved FOR USE BY PLANTS is the addition of DECOMPOSED ORGANIC MATTER. And we do not and should not mix it manually into the soil. Especially clay soils. We are missing some basic basic rules here. – stormy Jun 27 '16 at 21:49

score 2 · Answer 3 · answered Jun 23 '16 at 23:23

If I had your problem I would: Rent a SOD CUTTER. Get rid of that mess, the lighter colored what ever. Use that debris turned upside down for a new plant bed somewhere. Get some topsoil from a local outfit to get the soil leveled to the soil of the healthy lawn. ROLL, ROLL, ROLL....keep adding soil until that new level is the same height as the soil of the old lawn. (4" new material= sq. ft. divided by 81...2" divide by 2...8" multiply by two...you get it).

Make sure that that entire piece slopes slightly towards the fence or somewhere. That lawn and soil are TOO CLOSE TO THE BOTTOM OF YOUR FENCE. So it looks as if you get that level of at least 2" (better at 4")below the bottom of your fence you'll have some slope for drainage of water. There are other solutions but that would be the easiest not necessarily the best.

Did I say ROLL? Rent a drum to fill with water that you can easily walk behind and compact your soil for the new lawn. Keep grading (use a 2 - 3 foot grading rake), adding topsoil where you get depressions and raking down any hills. ROLL again. This is so critical for new lawns I just have to emphasize rolling. And make sure that lawn is 2" below your fence. (4" below siding on one's home)...

Go get SOD. It is grown in your local, easy peasy to do, snuffs out weeds, discourages any weed seed AND WON'T WASH AWAY.

DO NOT MOW ANY SHORTER THAN 3"!

WATER DEEPLY AND ALLOW TO DRY OUT BEFORE watering again.

FERTILIZE AT LEAST 3x PER YEAR WITH PROPER SEASONAL FORMULATIONS (organic extended release to include thatch eating bacteria is best and only done 2X per year)

AERATE using an aerator that pulls plugs of soil/lawn out of your lawn and deposits them on top of the lawn...leave them to disintegrate. Good stuff.

SHARP BLADES! Bagging clippings is best, I've never found a real mulching mower. Allowing your lawn to get to 3" and stay at that height, obviously controls weeds, reduces evaporation, the weekly mowings are so easy as there is little top growth per week to remove. You'll just be brushing the tops. Use on the back of your plant beds as mulch...spread thinly.

Using sod will solve the problems you are having, the rest will help you be successful with this creature we call a lawn...grins.

Shoot, aeration should be once per year (or more) but once per year is just fine. — stormy, Jun 23 '16 at 23:30

How can I fix my garden turf?

3 Answers3