GardenerJ is correct! If this is newly laid sod needs a little water every day for about a week and 1/2. Can you pull up the sod easily? (grab like hair and pull). If not continue with schedule. I am hoping your lawn heads and plant bed heads for your irrigation are on separate zones.
When established you need to TRAIN your grass roots by watering deeply and allowing to dry out. Only water when you walk on your grass your footprints STAY down. Not sooner and not later!! This pays off big time! Watering deeply means moisture gets at least 4" down in your soil. Gotta keep increasing the watered depth as your grasses become established (from 1" to 4"+). If your footprints in the grass pop back up quickly, don't water. When your footprints in the grass stay down, time to water and water deeply not ever just a little bit. This will train your lawn to be drought tolerant and be able to get at moisture that is protected from the environment.
Keep your grass mowed NO LESS THAN 3". Not 2 1/2" but 3!!! No kidding! These grass mixtures are all grasses with genetically LARGE root systems. Which is very, very good. But large root systems need a large TOP GROWTH to maintain. 3" is plenty. Any less will stress your grass plants where weeds will move in...hey, I experimented with this (don't tell my clients, grin) as everyone wanted 1" grass. 2 1/2 inches was way better than 2". 3" was perfect, dark, dark green, easy to cut and less to dispose of (shhhhh), but NO WEEDS. 2 1/2 " allowed some weeds to take hold. Not 3". Fertilize with an organic extended release plus micro nutrients plus bacteria (to decompose clippings and minimize thatch problems) and mycorrhizae for soil health. Dr. Earth lawn fertilizer BLEW me away!! Only needed to fertilize 2X versus 4X per year. I'd get a new mower if I couldn't raise the deck up to allow 3" length!! I DID!!
Aerate once per year! In your case you can wait until next year but always once per year. Use SHARP BLADES on your mower!! Get a pH test to see if you need to use lime periodically. Please don't lime unless you've tested the soil pH!! Moss control is UNNECESSARY! Moss does not compete with grass, it is an opportunist. If there are bare patches of soil your lawn needs redesigning! Sulfur also screws with the pH making it far more acidic than what lawn grasses want.
Lots of great answers for lawns on this site. I recommend you read as many as you are able. The LAWN is an amazing 'creature'...and is very expensive and disappointing to those that don't learn about this guy...for COOL SEASON GRASS MIX lawns...tropical stuff is different. You want a beautiful lawn, you need to have a great blower, weed wacker and mower that adjusts to 3" height grass. Don't worry about mulching...have not been impressed at all about 'mulching' mowers...just bag and use clippings on your plant beds thinly for weed supression and addition of a little Nitrogen.
