5

I'd like to plant a magnolia tree at the edge of the garden where it meets the concrete of an adjacent parking lot. There is clear morning sun. Light from the South and West is somewhat obstructed by other threes.

How can I go about this in such circumstances? What is a decent minimum distance for planting such a tree from where the concrete begins? What distance should be kept from other tees? What size of plant should I look for and what is a good time to plant it?

I've seen white and purple magnolias that both blossom in Central Europe around early April. Could I even plant one of each kind (color) and expect both to grow next to each other to similar size?

The location is Central Europe (zone 6). In terms of size and and flowers, this and that is roughly what I have in mind.


UPDATE: Here is a sketch of the situation. An ashed rectangle indicates the approx. size of a car. It's visitor parking space and usually not all slots are taken. Up is East. I thought it would be nice to plant a magnolia tree close to the corner of the parking lot (and perhaps a second one to its right.)

enter image description here

VividD
  • 5,810
  • 3
  • 21
  • 63
Drux
  • 1,292
  • 8
  • 13
  • First thing we will likely need is your USDA zone http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/ assuming you are in the US or the local equivalent. – Anubis Mar 28 '15 at 19:31
  • @Anubis, Drux is located in Central Europe. – J. Musser Mar 28 '15 at 20:01
  • Drux, there are many, many kinds of magnolia, and many of them require different care, grow to different sizes, etc. Can you be a little more specific as to the species/cultivar you're looking to plant? – J. Musser Mar 28 '15 at 20:03
  • 1
    In that case this will work: http://www.houzz.com/europeZoneFinder – Anubis Mar 28 '15 at 20:46
  • @Anubis Tx for this helpful link. My zone is 6 (also updated in question). – Drux Mar 29 '15 at 05:27
  • @J.Musser I've added links to two images that resemble what I have in mind. I'll study the Wikipedia article on magnolias more carefully to learn about those species/cultivars. Or is there a better resource/book that you would recommend? – Drux Mar 29 '15 at 05:38
  • Drux, please add a bit more detail to your drawing? Where is your home/buildings, walkways...and please add a few measurements for scale! Also North, prevailing winds that kind of thing. What are you trying to achieve; blocking view of parking lot? I don't want to assume. With more detail we can help you reach your goals...thanks! – stormy Mar 29 '15 at 18:43
  • @stormy I'll see what I can do. Got quite a lot of help already too (Thanks!) For now: it's a big garden. House not in direct proximity. North is "left". One walkway from parking lot into garden approx. 10 m to the "right" (out of margin). Goal (if I can call it that): ideas for starting to fill the gap in an attractive way; "attractive" around this time of year brings magnolia prominently to my mind :) – Drux Mar 29 '15 at 18:56
  • If you didn't check my profile, I am a Landscape Architect. Plants are expensive...anything one does in the landscape should be planned with the future in mind and so that people like me won't get hired to redo the landscape, costing lots of bucks. If you can give a better picture of what you are working with we could give you very valuable advice. Need to understand stuff like irrigation, soil tests and in short, the big picture. I know 'it's just a tree, or two' but you asked for help and this site is incredible to help you save money and make happy, usable landscapes, low maintenance... – stormy Mar 30 '15 at 19:51
  • I have to add that 'aesthetics' DO have rules. Humans are pretty similar with their 'aesthetic' needs and there are rules; for paintings, any artwork as well as the landscape that are necessary for a human brain to see as aesthetic. Part of what we were trained for as well as or more importantly, to serve function...now and in the future. A good design is low maintenance and a bad design is HIGH maintenance (will cost lots more in the long run)...perhaps making a specimen or focal point with your sentimental magnolia a better idea than using it as a screen...? Let us see the big picture... – stormy Mar 30 '15 at 19:58
  • 1
    @stormy It's not that I'm ignorant about rules of aesthetics, why would you think so? – Drux Mar 30 '15 at 20:09
  • 1
    Most people don't know that there are rules, Drux. Most people are great with indoor environments but very few 'get it' with the garden. Please don't misunderstand. I have had to tear out so much hard work, design around mistakes and educate my clients so they could maintain and enjoy their outdoor environment. I am also talking to others reading these comments. I'd like to help you is all. I never meant to put you down and never knowingly would!! Grins... – stormy Mar 31 '15 at 21:39

2 Answers2

3

The first requirement for any magnolia is deep, humus rich soil which doesn't constantly dry out - it shouldn't be waterlogged though. Magnolias generally don't like chalky soil, so a neutral to acid ph is best. Most deciduous species and M. grandiflora tolerate some sun, but all benefit from light shade.

There are two compact varieties you could plant, if there's enough room - Magnolia liliiflora 'Nigra', which has deep, purplish pink tulip shaped flowers, ultimate height 3 metres, with a similar spread, and another compact variety is M. 'George Henry Kern', with pink vased shaped flowers, reaching ultimately 2.5 metres with a similar spread. Both are deciduous.

Alternatively, if you really want a medium to large tree, there are many which reach 15-18 metres, but something not quite so large is Magnolia 'Jane', with open to cup shaped fragrant flowers, deep pink on the outside and very pale pink within. It's deciduous, and the flowers are produced on bare stems, before the leaves arrive. Height and spread 4.5m with a similar spread to the crown.

The other thing to consider is the mess - if it's windy when the tree is in flower, the flowers are dashed to the ground and blown all over the place. If its not windy, the flowers remain, but when they fall, there is a fair bit of mess to clear up on the ground - which might be important if all the spent flowers end up in the parking lot or any parked cars present. It's not wise to plant one of these in an area which is open and quite windy a lot of the time.

If you can provide the correct growing conditions, distance from the concrete should be around 1.5metres as a minimum. Best planting time either spring or autumn, but you will need to keep the tree well watered during dry spells for its first two years.

UPDATED ANSWER: All stands as before, but I see your drawing shows asphalt, not concrete, in which case, minimum planting distance from that increases to 2 metres - asphalt can easily be 'heaved' up by large roots beneath.

Bamboo
  • 131,823
  • 3
  • 72
  • 162
  • 1
    @Drux - one thing, now I've read all the comments - bear in mind these trees only flower for a couple of weeks - you may want to consider what else you can plant that you'll find attractive for the other 50 weeks of the year. – Bamboo Mar 31 '15 at 14:31
2

Looking forward to seeing the area you intend to plant these Magnolias. Concrete makes soil much more alkaline, lawns like this, not sure about Magnolias but since they love acid soils of the Northwest, I have a feeling that the concrete won't be that great. And as they grow, the roots can bust up concrete...etc.

Magnolias are great WAY out in the garden. Very messy if these have the huge flowers, bees, gooey...they are also very breakable in high winds. As an evergreen, there is an awful lot of weight on the branches during the winters. Wind storms can shear these guys in half.

What concerns me is 'how close can i get to the concrete parking lot'...are you trying to block the parking lot from view? How big of a yard do you have? Are you planting them in fluffy plant beds or right on the edge of a flat lawn? And, to give you a good suggestion without knowing anything else...DON'T GET ONE OF THIS TREE AND ONE OF THIS OTHER COLOR!! As a Landscape Architect, one of the first 'rules' one learns about aesthetics in the landscape is to keep 'specimens' FEW!! Never buy one of anything unless it will be a focal point, the focal point. If you are going to have trees, think MASS. Much more natural and much more punch. Human brains get wiggy when there is more than 3 different things to think about. Send more information and definitely more pictures that show your entire yard...landscaping is very expensive. So smart to ask questions on this site before you make mistakes in your yard...

stormy
  • 40,098
  • 3
  • 31
  • 75
  • 2
    Many magnolias are deciduous. The deciduous ones rarely fall apart in winter. And I haven't seen one break up concrete yet... – J. Musser Mar 28 '15 at 22:30
  • 1
    +1 I'll see if I can do a sketch of the location and post it here. About colors: I generally like to put items in my garden that I remember fondly from elsewhere (it's more a sentimental than an aesthetic thing and certainly not driven by "one of this ... and one of this"). But I'll reconsider. Are there any books or other resources about "aesthetics in the landscape" that you would recommend? – Drux Mar 29 '15 at 05:33